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San Pedro de Atacama, Chile: an oasis that sold its sky

Salar de Aguas Calientes Sur III. Altiplano de Antofagasta. Comuna de San Pedro de Atacama. Comunidad atacameña de Socaire.
October 21, 2026 Matthew Pfeifer
Creative City Development
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Salar de Aguas Calientes Sur III. Altiplano de Antofagasta. Comuna de San Pedro de Atacama. Comunidad atacameña de Socaire.
Photo: CARLOS TEIXIDOR CADENAS, CC BY 4.0 (source)

What San Pedro de Atacama is known for

San Pedro de Atacama is a mud-brick oasis in the driest nonpolar desert on Earth, known as a base for desert travel and stargazing. Lickanantay families farm canal-fed ayllus there, and the comuna has under ten thousand people. INE recorded 202,843 arrivals at tourist accommodation in the comuna in 2019.

Short of water, rich in sky

San Pedro de Atacama is a high oasis between the Salar de Atacama and the Andes, where Lickanantay (Atacameno) families farm canal-fed ayllus. A pre-Columbian center and later a colonial route hub, it counted a few hundred to under two thousand people for most of its recorded history.

Water is the scarce thing here, not sky. A 2025 study estimated 49 percent of residents lack running water, and the lithium brine operations in the salar inside the comuna draw on the same basin. What the desert had in surplus was altitude, clear air and dark sky, so that is what San Pedro sold. The alternative was to stay a place people passed through.

Turning sky and silence into inventory

In 1957 the Belgian priest Gustavo Le Paige built an archaeology museum from graves and ruins around the oasis, thousands of years of regional history. In 1998 the explora lodge opened, reselling access it does not own: Valle de la Luna, the geysers and the salt flats, co-managed by Lickanantay communities with CONAF.

What the sky earns

INE’s last full year for the destination, 2019, recorded 202,843 arrivals at tourist accommodation in the comuna, against 9,843 residents in the 2024 census. No monthly figure has been published since March 2020. Dozens of hotels and restaurants line its streets, and the municipality’s May 2026 tourism strategy names low overnight stays as the problem it is trying to solve.

Why it worked, and what it costs

San Pedro understood that the conditions making it hard to live in were exactly what no rival could copy. It did not fight the desert, it sold it: dry air, a wide horizon, a dark sky. The museum gave depth, the lodge gave polish, and the landscape gave spectacle.

The cost shows up in water, drawn down by tourism and lithium together.

Questions people ask about San Pedro de Atacama

Why is San Pedro de Atacama famous?

San Pedro de Atacama is known as a base for desert travel and stargazing. It sits in the driest nonpolar desert on Earth, and it sold its dry air, wide horizon and dark sky rather than fighting the desert.

How many tourists visit San Pedro de Atacama?

INE's last full year for the destination, 2019, recorded 202,843 arrivals at tourist accommodation in the comuna, against 9,843 residents in the 2024 census. No monthly figure has been published since March 2020.

Who manages Valle de la Luna and the geysers near San Pedro de Atacama?

Valle de la Luna, the geysers and the salt flats are co-managed by Lickanantay communities with CONAF. The explora lodge, opened in 1998, resells access to them, and the sky and the silence became the town's inventory.

Does San Pedro de Atacama have enough water?

Water is the scarce thing there, not sky. A 2025 study estimated 49 percent of residents lack running water, and the lithium brine operations in the salar inside the comuna draw on the same basin.

From the book. San Pedro de Atacama is one of the case studies in Only Here: Desert Towns, a field study of desert towns that built their own reason to visit. See the Only Here series.
More desert towns with a similar move: Vicuna Borrego Springs

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